Why Hermès is the most counterfeited luxury brand

A Birkin or a Kelly currently resells for more on the second-hand market than in boutiques: it is the only bag in the world in this situation, and that is exactly why fakes are so numerous and so well-made. A Togo leather Birkin 25 exceeds €9,000 in boutiques, when you can actually get one; on the second-hand market, it trades between €14,000 and €22,000 depending on the leather, color, and year.

Three reasons explain this market:

• Organized scarcity. Hermès does not sell its Birkin and Kelly bags to just anyone who asks. It requires a boutique purchase history, sometimes spanning several years, with no guarantees. The second-hand market is therefore the only gateway for most buyers.
• Rising prices. Hermès increases its prices every year, and demand outstrips supply. A Kelly bought ten years ago is often worth double today.
• "Superfakes." For several years now, workshops have been copying Hermès bags using real leather and heavy hardware, sold for €2,000 to €4,000. To the naked eye, in a photo, they even deceive regular customers. Only a physical, point-by-point examination can confirm their authenticity.

This guide covers the checks our team performs on every Hermès item deposited with us before offering it for sale.

The most copied models

The more expensive and sought-after a model is, the more it is counterfeited. The price ranges below are what we see in our consignment shop for bags in good to very good condition with classic leathers; exotic leathers and rare colors fall well outside these ranges.

See the Hermès pieces available right now — bags, scarves, ready-to-wear, and accessories, all checked before listing.

The expert's 10 control points

A single detail does not condemn or validate a bag; it is the combination of clues that counts. Here are the ten points that make the difference, in the order we verify them.

1. The leather. Each Hermès leather has a signature: Togo (fine and regular grain, supple), Epsom (embossed grain, rigid, the bag stands on its own), Clémence (large grain, heavy, sags slightly), Swift (smooth, takes color beautifully), Box (smooth and shiny, scratches). A fake often has a grain that is too regular, as if printed, or leather that smells of chemicals.
2. The saddle stitch. The bags are hand-stitched, using two needles and waxed linen thread. The stitches are slightly slanted and not perfectly identical: that is the mark of a human hand. Machine stitching, straight and uniform, is the number one red flag.
3. The heat stamp. "HERMÈS PARIS MADE IN FRANCE," in fine, sharp letters, with the grave accent on the È, in the same tone as the bag's metal. Thick, blurry letters, a missing accent, or smudged gold: fake.
4. The blind stamp. A letter for the year stamped into the leather, accompanied by the artisan's code. From 1971 to 1996, the letter is in a circle; from 1997 to 2014, in a square; since 2015, without a frame (T = 2015, X = 2016, A = 2017, C = 2018, D = 2019, Y = 2020, Z = 2021, U = 2022, B = 2023, W = 2024). A letter that does not correspond to the model or hardware of that era betrays a copy.
5. The padlock and keys. The padlock is engraved "HERMÈS" and bears a number; the two keys bear the same number and are stored in the leather clochette. Mismatched numbers or crude engraving: beware.
6. The hardware. Gold or palladium plated, heavy, without peeling, with fine "HERMÈS PARIS" engravings on the clasp plate. The metal on fakes is lighter and the engravings deeper or wider.
7. The zipper. On zipped models, the Hermès-engraved pull tab remains flat, aligned with the zip, when released. On a fake, it hangs down.
8. The interior. Goat leather or matching leather lining, stitching identical to the exterior, clean interior pocket. A canvas or bonded leather lining does not come from Hermès.
9. The proportions. A Birkin stands on its own, its handles are symmetrical, and the flap falls just above the toggle. A Sellier Kelly has sharp edges, a Retourné Kelly has rounded edges. Fakes often have handles that are too short or a flap that is too long.
10. Consistent age. Leather, color, hardware, blind stamp, and font style must all correspond to the same year. A leather created in 2010 with a 1995 blind stamp does not exist.

If a single point leaves you in doubt, do not pay: an authentic Hermès bag leaves no room for doubt.

What proves nothing

Fake sellers rely on accessories, because they are reassuring and easily copied.

• The "Certificate of Authenticity." Hermès has never issued one. A bag sold with an Hermès certificate is a fake, or a genuine bag accompanied by a fake document.
• The orange box and dustbag. These can be bought alone on the internet for a few dozen euros, often salvaged from genuine purchases of small items.
• The invoice. A photo of an invoice can be retouched in five minutes. Even a real invoice does not prove that the bag in front of you is the one on the receipt.
• An appointment in an Hermès boutique. Hermès does not authenticate bags purchased elsewhere. The house may refuse a fake at the repair workshop, but they do not issue any certificate.
• High price. A fake sold for €6,000 is still a fake. "Superfakes" are specifically sold at high prices to appear credible.

The only proof is the bag itself, physically examined by someone who has seen hundreds of them.

The traps of a real second-hand Hermès

A bag can be authentic and yet be worth much less than its asking price. Four situations to know:

• Third-party repair. A Birkin whose handles have been redone or corners re-stitched by a cobbler loses 20 to 40% of its value, and Hermès may subsequently refuse to take it into their workshop. Only restoration at Hermès (the "spa") preserves its market value.
• Redyed leather. A light-colored bag redyed black to hide stains can be spotted by the edges, the lining, and the stamp, which is often covered. Its value is that of a damaged bag.
• The incomplete piece. Without the original padlock, keys, clochette, or strap, a Kelly sells for significantly less. Hermès spare parts cannot be bought freely.
• The "customized." Paintings, studs, or leathers added by third-party workshops: it’s a matter of taste, but Hermès no longer recognizes the bag, and resale becomes difficult.

Always ask for the history: approximate purchase date, whether or not it has been to the Hermès workshop, and which accessories are present. A serious seller knows the answers.

How we authenticate at Personal Seller Paris

Every Hermès piece deposited with us passes through our hands before being photographed and listed online. We refuse questionable bags, even when the depositor is in good faith, because our reputation depends on every sale.

In practice:

• physical examination of the ten points above, in daylight, with the bag in hand;
• comparison with reference pieces we have previously sold (leather, stamp, hardware from the same year);
• verification of consistency between the blind stamp, model, leather, and color;
• honest description of the condition and accessories present on the product page, with photos of all details.

You can see every bag in person at our space at Galeries Lafayette Haussmann (3rd floor, (RE)STORE space), receive it by courier within 3 hours in Paris or within 24 to 48 hours internationally, and pay in 3 installments with Scalapay.

Do you have an Hermès to sell? We will come to your home in Paris to pick it up, or you can ship it to us: we take care of the authentication, photos, sale, and shipping.

FAQ: Authenticating an Hermès bag

Does Hermès issue a certificate of authenticity? No, never. No cards, no certificates, no serial numbers to check online. Any document of this type is a fake. The only trace of origin is the blind stamp pressed into the leather, which indicates the year and the artisan.

How much does a second-hand Birkin cost? Between €12,000 and €22,000 for a Birkin 25, 30, or 35 in classic leather (Togo, Epsom, Clémence) in good to very good condition. Exotic leathers, rare colors, and special editions exceed €30,000. A price significantly below these ranges is, in itself, a red flag.

What is the blind stamp? A letter discreetly pressed into the leather, which encodes the year of manufacture (in a circle from 1971 to 1996, in a square from 1997 to 2014, without a frame since 2015), accompanied by the artisan's code. It is generally found inside, under the flap or on the strap, depending on the model and year.

Can you have a bag authenticated at an Hermès boutique? No. Hermès does not offer this service and does not issue any certificate. Contact a specialized consignment shop or an independent expert who will examine the bag physically.

Is a vintage Kelly without a padlock or keys necessarily suspicious? No, accessories get lost over forty years. But the bag should be sold for less, and everything else (leather, stitching, stamp, blind stamp, hardware) must be impeccable.